It started when a Raglan friend, also gainfully retired, announced she had rented an apartment in Vienna for two months.
“Why don’t you come for a visit?” she said. Why not indeed?
“Big deal,” I hear you say, “people travel to Europe all the time!”
Perhaps true, but I no longer have youth (or even middle age) on my side, and I worried my artificial knees would set off every detector in every airport. They did.
People said I was brave, so surely there was something to be anxious about? And I was. But I seized the day, ignored the stomach knot, and returned stronger and more enriched than I could have imagined.
So here is one older woman’s account of her adventures in Europe – stories of roads less travelled and places not always noticed… the highlights that made it an adventure, rather than just a trip.
Vienna and Beyond
Having escaped bombing in World War II, Vienna offers neck-stretching architecture at every turn. Where else can you wander cobbled streets to a palace like the Belvedere and stumble upon the iconic Vienna State Opera?
But even more memorable was a simple apartment stay in a Jewish working-class neighbourhood. Hundreds of small brass plaques embedded in doorsteps named Jewish residents removed during the Nazi regime. Today, Hasidic men in tall hats and young women in long skirts walk those same streets. Life continues.
We couldn’t resist a short bus ride across the border to Slovakia. Bratislava and Vienna are the two closest capital cities in Europe, yet the contrast is striking. Communist-era high-rises loom over the beautiful Old Town. The trick is to dodge the umbrella-wielding tour groups and find your own quiet corners. Then, catch a riverboat back to Vienna at the end of the day.
Cycling the Danube
Ticking off a lifelong bucket list dream, I spent six days cycling river paths past churches, castles and villages while travelling on the Prinzessin Katharina, a slightly faded but charming 140-berth riverboat.
Surprisingly, the highlight was cycling on a bleak day to Mauthausen Concentration Camp. It was the kind of site I’d previously said I wouldn’t visit, but it moved me deeply.
Afterwards, I got wet, got dry, got lost, found myself and bowled along in solitude for 60 kilometres on my electric bike until Grein Castle and the Katharina came back into view.
Berlin by Paddle and Foot
In Berlin, an informative and hilarious walking tour led by a British expat was a highlight. Later, we kayaked right through the city centre on the Danube Canal – an unforgettable experience.
Hauling a blow-up kayak across four different transport modes was its own challenge. To balance out the urban chaos, I spent a peaceful weekend at Schloss Boitzenburg, a castle-turned-backpackers in rural Brandenburg. Surrounded by 30 German-speaking travellers, I was well outside my comfort zone, but the kindness of strangers bridged the gap.
Homecoming to Scotland
Then came family – cousins and my tiny 91-year-old uncle, “Wee Hugh.” Visiting my father’s childhood home and hearing family stories added a depth to the trip I’ll always treasure.
One final bucket list item: the recreated home of designer and architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh in Glasgow. Then it was off to the lochs and Highlands. Yes, it rained. But it added atmosphere to Inveraray Castle and the local pub in Goilhead, where even wet dogs were welcome.
Coming Home
I feel I’ve done with big trips now. Tens of thousands of people moving constantly through the world feels overwhelming. I swear there were as many people at Abu Dhabi Airport as live in Raglan.
I’m lucky to come home to a place of peace, beauty and sanity at the edge of the world.
Tips for Older Solo Travellers
Write a full itinerary with flight numbers, terminals, station platforms and hotel details.
Keep paper copies of all bookings, insurance and your passport – phones fail.
Believe in the kindness of people, but don’t rely on them to take responsibility for you.
Be brave about speaking to strangers – curiosity breaks language barriers.
Be assertive (but polite). Don’t care what people think. You won’t see them again.
Try a 12–24 hour stopover in an airport hotel – rest, swim, stretch. It eases jet lag.
With Robyn Riddle
